Why I’m Dressing Like the Aimé Leon Dore Lookbock This Winter Without Wearing Any of It
A personal explanation of my mixed opinion towards the New York streetwear label Aimé Leon Dore.
What’s good man, how’s the family?
A new season has begun. Means, a lot of us spend hours on the internet getting inspired about the latest trends for this winter. Which jacket does one wear. Coat or puffer. Is the scarf knitted or cashmere? And which brand is the big statement of the cold season.
Questions, over questions. However, one thing is clear: we are embracing the old shows from the 90s again. The 90s interpretation of minimalism — when neutral skirts by Jil Sander and suits by Calvin Klein had their prime time — doesn't seem to be over quite yet. It was the time of cream-coloured turtlenecks under boxy blazers and loose bowling shirts combined with casual trousers that trendy people wore through the streets. Some said it was boring. But many knew it had class.
And at a time when contemporary brands like Supreme or Aimé Leon Dore are dedicating themselves to this period of the 90s again and putting americana in the foreground, it's also time for us to tackle casual streetwear. For myself, this became clear when I strolled through the new Aimé Leon Dore store in London a couple of days ago. Rarely have I seen a store so overcrowded with staff — yet also with such incredibly style-conscious staff.
Not Aimé Leon Dore, but Aimé Leon Dore Nonetheless.
Just as the two very friendly, coffee-drinking and far too good-looking members of staff opened the door for me — yes, there are two members of staff just to greet you — it was clear to me that all of this was more about an experience rather than a fashion brand. An experience that takes you into the world of casual streetwear and explains why the whole internet has been talking about the brand from New York for a year now.
However, as I started to really take a look at the clothes, my feeling was dampened. As soon as you can blank out the glamour of the beautiful shop and the way-too-loud music, one thing becomes clear: Aimé Leon Dore thrives on styling. The clothes alone are reminiscent of GAP or American Apparel. Prints with hardly any love. Shirts with cheap prints and designs that really leave you wishing. You all notice — I refuse to drop my money in this shop. Quickly, my enthusiasm for Aimé Leon Dore’s branding was once again destroyed by their clothes. Don't get me wrong, I'm not expecting a masterpiece à la Commes des Garcons here. But still, for a brand of this size and attention, I think we should be able to expect more.
And this proves it to me once again. Aimé Leon Dore is more a movement than a brand. It's about the experience, about branding. And really not about the design. Which is a big thorn in my side. Nevertheless, for my winter wardrobe — as for so many early 20s men from Central Europe — the Aimé Leon Dore lookbock is the main inspiration. And this only because of the movement around the brand.
Teddy Santis: The Master of Branding
Teddy Santis created this movement. The founder of Aimé Leon Dore is a master of hype. His approach, however, is the exact opposite of Supreme-style propaganda designed to create a loud buzz. Instead, it's more of a subtle, carefully curated buzz, which is all the more intriguing for it.
In the age of Hidden.Ny, endless Instagram brands and a trend-driven Generation Z mentality, Aimé Leon Dore has one attribute that the others have all lost along the way: Autonomy. Santis does not allow himself to be influenced by the latest hypes on social media, but gives specific input from himself on projects and subcultures that suit him. After all, these play a major role in his work: Aimé Leon Dore is an amalgamation of the things that moved Santis in his youth in New York. Music, culture and lifestyle. Nevertheless, he doesn't have the need to display his curatorial work in any way. Neither interviews nor Instagram posts by himself can be found on the internet. Only the Aimé Leon Dore’s profile is regularly fed. Inspo pictures, which are merely marked with a pin emoji, alternate with lookbook and editorial shots on the Aimé Leon Dore grid. It's as if the profile is a fashion magazine, not a brand.
The brand's neo-heritage design approach has attracted a loyal following of hypebeasts and clothing obsessives alike since its inception in 2014, with each camp drawn to a different set of the label's qualities. Some fans are won over by the design — which I can't understand — others are won over by the mix of functional streetwear and uniform pieces. And some more are enthusiastic about the lifestyle that Aimé Leon Dore embodies with its brand. This is also evident in their history of collaborations. Rarely does a younger brand manage to cooperate with companies such as Kith, New Era, Timberland, Woolrich, Drake's and New Balance. Not to mention that Santis is the first person to get Porsche's consent to modify one of their vintage models.
Although a brand's clothing should be its key to success, it is not so with Teddy Santis. It is his ability to build an entire movement that lives by the aesthetic standards of a brand. All without even realising it. Santis is a creative mind who manages to leave his mark in all sorts of unexpected places without ever getting too carried away. And it is for this ability that I respect Aimé Leon Dore. Not as a brand, but as a movement and aesthetic.
Love,
Pascal
